Glastonbury 2024

I went to Glastonbury Festival for the first time; here are some scattered thoughts and best-ofs.

  1. Everyone tells you how massive it is, but nothing can prepare you for how absolutely massive it is. It’s less a “festival” and more a pop-up theme park, or even a city. It’s one of the most remarkable places I’ve ever been.
  2. There is so much stuff beyond the headline music acts. Without even going near a stage, you stumble across all sorts of exceptional art: gigantic sand sculptures, roving Rajasthani brass bands, angels on stilts, an installation about immigration, a woman in a bird cage above a bar twirling a flaming sword … the list goes on, and on, and on. The Theatre and Circus stages have some really impressive performers too (I popped into an outstanding arial acrobatics show at one point). And that’s just the acts: there are also two gigantic fields full of activities and workshops, where you can learn anything from woodworking to metal forging, willow weaving to guitar making. You could very easily spend the entire festival without seeing a single musical act, and you’d still have a phenomenal time.
  3. The sheer diversity of available entertainment is amazing, too. I think I had a completely different experience to most of my friends; I expect there are some people with whom I didn’t overlap at all. The size and breadth means you can tailor your experience to your tastes — there really is something for everyone.
  4. Even if you don’t love their music, the big-name musicians are almost universally great. I’m not a particularly big fan of Dua Lipa, Little Simz, Coldplay, or Janelle Monae, but all delivered really fun and memorable shows, and I’m really glad I saw them. Justice, who I like but don’t love, were particularly incredible, with the best lighting rig I’ve ever seen (absenting U2 at the Sphere, which doesn’t really count).
  5. The slightly-less-famous acts were even better, in my opinion. Sampha and Michael Kiwanuka performed two of the best sets of the whole weekend, with absolutely rapt audiences and stunning music.
  6. And it was particularly wonderful to see acts from around the world that I’d otherwise never see. Artists like Ustad Noor Baksh (who I’ve previously written about here), Arooj Aftab, and Mdou Moctar all completely blew me away — and it was very special to watch them with a big crowd of other (mostly English) people absolutely loving it too.
  7. While I did plan my schedule quite meticulously, some of the festival’s best moments came from randomly stumbling across stuff, whether it was a New Age DJ and flautist playing to a tiny crowd under a mushroom in the woods or a former-TfL-worker-turned-comic-accordionist playing in Rimski’s Yard, one of the most baffling spaces I’ve ever been in. And because of the aforementioned size and density, moments like that come along constantly.
  8. The Tree Stage, which I gather is new, was absolutely lovely — baffling, but fascinating, ambient sets that you could lie down to. Listening to Jon Hopkins’ new album on its 360-degree sound system was a real treat.
  9. Everyone was remarkably nice and kind, staff and fellow attendees alike. And it all felt blissfully uncommercial and relaxed (almost no ads in sight, anywhere!). Though the hippiness comes with its downsides: I was particularly irked by the number of anti-nuclear-energy signs and pro-homeopathy tents.
  10. It certainly wasn’t perfect: it was too busy, especially at night, and queues made moving around pretty unpleasant at times. I suspect the organisers need to cut capacity by about 10% (around 20,000 people). That will result in higher ticket prices, but frankly at the current price it’s an absolute bargain, and you could easily charge double and have people feel they’re getting their money’s worth. They also need to better match stages to artists: some overcrowding, such as Bicep and Avril Lavigne, was completely predictable and avoidable, while others were put on stages that were too big for them. With a bit of reshuffling and smaller crowds, it’d be close to perfect.

My favourite performances, in chronological order: Jeanie White, Dar Disku B2B Nabihah Iqbal, Sampha, Dua Lipa, Ustad Noor Baksh, Arooj Aftab, Michael Kiwanuka, Mdou Moctar, Hagop Tchaparian B2B Anish Kumar, Justice.

2024 Culture Roundup (so far)

Here’s a quick rundown of everything I’ve seen/read that’s worth talking about so far this year.

GIGS

Fortuitous timing meant that I saw Taylor Swift and Olivia Rodrigo one week after each other, providing an excellent opportunity to compare the two superstars of our age.

Swift, who I saw first, certainly offers value for money, especially at Parisian prices. Her three hour show cycles through all the hits (and makes you realise just how many she’s got). And a very flashy lighting setup, coupled with computer-controlled flashing wristbands on every audience member and a stage floor that doubles up as a screen of its own, certainly delivers a sensory overload.

But despite the glamour, the whole thing felt oddly unemotional and detached. Some of that comes from Swift’s over-reliance on screens, with little-to-no physical staging throughout the entire show, and a surprisingly small group of dancers who struggle to fill such a massive stage. Those staging decisions make the show feel intangible and distant. Another problem is that the show is, surprisingly, quite unpolished: many of the on-screen visuals use poor quality CGI, and the costume-change breaks are much too long and poorly executed, occurring after a song has finished instead of (as is more often the case) during an outro. Both choices ruin the immersion Swift’s clearly aiming for, taking audiences out of the show and ruining its pacing.

But much of the problem comes from Swift herself, who is so over-polished and tightly scripted that she never feels truly present. There’s very little audience interaction, and even while performing there’s little real emotion — it often feels like she’s just going through the motions. There was only one point where I felt like I saw the real Swift, right at the start of the show. Clearly feeding off the crowd’s adoration, she said “I want to see what happens if I do … this”, before pointing her finger at a section of the crowd, which predictably burst into screams. Beaming, she swept her finger across the arena, the ear-splitting scream moving perfectly in sync. It was the closest thing I’ve ever seen to someone being truly drunk on power, and cemented this idea of Swift-as-otherly-god-figure, as opposed to Swift-as-relatable-human: certainly a spectacle to witness, but not something that makes for a thrilling show.

Contrast, then, with Olivia Rodrigo, a performer overflowing with humanity from the minute she appeared. Throughout a tight, under two hour set, Rodrigo performed each song as if she really, really felt it, bopping around stage and having the time of her life. Watching her felt like watching a real, complicated, funny human being; a perfect fit for her raw and funny songs. And she was a natural performer, too, with a stunning voice and impeccable audience banter. And despite having a considerably smaller budget than Swift, it was much better spent: one sequence, with Rodrigo sitting on a moon that floats out over the crowd, surrounding by glowing stars, provided more memorable imagery than anything in Swift’s three-hour behemoth. A truly five star show.

But despite that, it still wasn’t the best show I’ve seen this year! That honour goes, unexpectedly, to Ustad Noor Bakhsh, for a thrilling performance at the Southbank Centre back in March. The 79 year old benju player from rural Balochistan is a virtuoso in and of himself, playing all sorts of gorgeous compositions; but the true magic came from a largely South Asian crowd with an uncontainable energy. My heart goes out to the poor security guard who unsuccessfully kept trying to stop people from coming to the stage and dancing; but I’m very glad he failed. Bakhsh is playing Glastonbury next month; he’s easily the performer I’m most excited to see.

THEATRE

So far, this has mostly been a year of disappointments. I had high hopes for Machinal, Hadestown, Enemy of the People, Player Kings, and Boys from the Blackstuff; all underwhelmed (especially the latter). Thankfully there was only one truly dire production: Simon Godwin’s abysmal Macbeth, which misleadingly used “site-specific” marketing to disguise a bog standard, dull production, pointlessly staged in a warehouse with awful acoustics and terrible seating. Everyone involved with that should be ashamed of themselves.

That said, a couple of highlights. Port of Entry in Chicago has the best immersive set design I’ve ever seen, bar none, and was an unforgettable and moving production (despite some at-times-ropey storytelling). Yael Farber’s King Lear was wonderful (making up for an underwhelming Branagh production last year), with an incredible cast (Danny Sapani and Clarke Peters in particular) really bringing the text to life. The Portrait of Dorian Gray was a wonderful showcase of how to effectively use cameras and video on stage, and Sarah Snook was superb throughout. And The Hills of California, though lacking the profundity of other Butterworths, was still a thrilling evening.

Other things I saw: The Comeuppance; Nachtland; Double Feature; Collaborator; The Gods The Gods The Gods; The Last Show Before We Die.

ART/EXHIBITIONS

I travelled to Paris in January to see the Rothko retrospective, and I am so glad I did. It was an absolutely stunning exhibition; full of emotion and pain that hit you on a really visceral level. I spent several hours just absorbing it all. It wasn’t perfect — some of the lighting was surprisingly shoddy and Fondation Louis Vuitton is a logistical mess — but it’s definitely an exhibition I’ll never forget.

While in Paris, I also saw Parfums d’Orient at the Institut du Monde Arabe, which was a real gem. Clever use of scent boxes and interactivity made an otherwise hard to exhibit topic come to life, and the curation (which took you through different spaces where scent is used, like the home, the mosque, and the baths) was quite lovely.

And although I’m biased, my dear friend Surya Bowyer’s exhibition Paper Cuts (still on at the Peltz Gallery) was really wonderful — a thoughtfully chosen selection of images of Indians filtered through the colonial-gaze, paired with some gorgeous new commissions and really insightful wall text. Infuriating and beautiful, all at once.

Some duds, of course; most notably UVA Synchronicity which was the clearest example of “shallow Instagram bait” I’ve seen in some time. And Entangled Pasts at the RA had all the potential of a good show, but was let down by a number of stupid curatorial decisions.

GAMES

I finally got round to playing Disco Elysium, which is not quite as good as everyone makes out, but is still really special. Norco, too, was an interesting play. And I liked Botany Manor more than I expected to. Inscryption starts off really strong, but deteriorates annoyingly quickly. Doki Doki Literature Club! is batshit, but it’s free and certainly worth playing. And I’m hopelessly addicted to Hades, despite being quite bad at it.

My standout, though, is not a video game but a cooperative tabletop escape-style game called Threads of Fate. It’s an absolutely genius puzzle game, combining real-life props and diaries with Wikipedia trawling, and all held together by a surprisingly affecting story. It’s so satisfactorily designed, with really thoughtful and tricky puzzles that never make you feel cheated, and gorgeous physical materials. So good, in fact, that as soon as I finished it I went out and bought all of the company’s other games (which you can, and should, do here).

MOVIES

Film is easily the medium where I’ve had the most luck this year; perhaps that’s because it’s also what I’ve most-consumed. Basically all the Oscars entrants were superb. I’m still thinking about Zone of Interest, and Poor Things, The Holdovers and The Iron Claw were all great too.

Of other new releases, Dune: Part Two was stunning (the changes from the book might all be improvements!), particularly in dual-laser IMAX (70mm left something to be desired). Challengers was an absolute riot; that final scene is one of the best things ever committed to film. Perfect Days, Past Lives, How to Have Sex, and Monster were all great too. And I really liked Civil War, which is much more politically interesting than people give it credit for.

I saw a bunch of excellent older releases for the first time, too: Psycho, Cleo from 5 to 7, Paris, Texas, Carrie, The Wicker Man, and Days of Heaven all wildly live up to the hyper, particularly the latter. Hereditary and Four Lions still delighted on rewatch, too. (The Phantom Menace, less so.)

The only “bad” thing I’ve seen was Fungi: Web of Life (a shallow, dull documentary). Plenty of good-not-great flicks, though, including Mad Max 2, La Chimera, Hoard, Galliano: High and Low, Love Lies Bleeding, Evil Does Not Exist, Room 666, The Funhouse, The Searchers, American Fiction, Hoop Dreams, Side by Side, Jodorowsky’s Dune, and The Boy and the Heron.

BOOKS

I’ve not finished nearly as much as I’d have liked; instead I’m midway through a bunch of middling books. 

The two standouts came from authors I’ve previously read and loved: RF Kuang’s Yellowface and David Mitchell’s Black Swan Green. The former is brilliantly funny, very gripping, and almost Nabokovian in its use of a detestable narrator. The latter perfectly captures a very specific time of life, and is full of drop-dead gorgeous lines that permanently change the way you think.

I also enjoyed the Three Body Problem and its sequels; the writing (in translation) is pretty dire but the story and ideas are interesting. Circe was good, too. And I liked, but didn’t love, Cinema Speculation, Rendezvous with Rama, I’m A Fan, The Secret History of Twin Peaks, and Rebecca.

Best of 2023: Gigs

I went to twelve (I think) gigs this year; these were the best (in chronological order).

Four Tet at Alexandra Palace (May)

Just a stunning gig. The combination of spatial audio and the gorgeous lights was mesmerising, and he’s an absolute master at taking you through a set with no lulls or weird transitions. You can listen to a version of it here.

U2 (and Lady Gaga) at the Sphere (October)

This is the most incredible venue in the world. From the very first second of the gig, where the “bricks” on the screen start crumbling and the wall starts to “open up”, my jaw was on the floor, and that lasted till the end. I had really high hopes for the venue, but it completely outdid them. Videos like this do it some justice, but not much; you truly have to visit in person. It’s the biggest spectacle you’ll ever see; a screen that overwhelms and envelops you, paired with near-perfect sound, leading to an indescribable experience. I cannot wait to go back.

All that, though, is about the venue — as that’s why I went. I’m not a U2 fan, but they were pretty good! I thought their set took good advantage of the space, though there were too many lulls where the screen wasn’t being used enough. And they’re good performers, Bono especially. Lady Gaga appearing for some duets was a particular highlight, though.

Rihab Azar at Shoreditch House (November)

This was a very short, 20 minute set from an artist I was totally unfamiliar with, but it was totally transportive. The oud is such a wonderful, underrated instrument, and Azar plays it beautifully.

Other things I saw this year: JamieXX at Printworks (very good, very eclectic); Rival Consoles at the Barbican (like being bathed in noise); Beyoncé at Tottenham Hotspur Stadium (good spectacle but underdelivered); Jon Hopkins at BBC Proms (pretty great, and his new composition Athos is very good, though some of the other arrangements were a bit too dramatic); Max Richter at BBC Proms (lovely); Repercussion at Warehouse Project (Moderat were amazing, Jon Hopkins was fine, Bicep were underwhelming); RY X at St Paul’s Cathedral (cool to have electronic music in a venue like this, though the acoustics don’t really work for it); Four Tet at Finsbury Park (good, but last year’s was better); Max Cooper at EartH (good, and great visuals, but his Roundhouse gig last year was better).

Some good things, January-June 2023

Theatre etc.

My highlight so far this year is probably A Morte do Corvo, a Punchdrunk-inspired immersive production in Lisbon. I’ve been fortunate with a range of good immersive experiences: Phantom Peak, in London, was very silly but very fun; Heresy: 1897, in New York was a brilliantly difficult immersive escape room (with a coherent plot!); Saw: Escape Experience is too easy but has excellent production value; and The Burnt City continues to be excellent (though I think its impending closure is for the best, it is time for something new). The Grim, meanwhile, was a very unimpressive and somewhat repugnant immersive production.

On the conventional theatre front, I very much enjoyed Phaedra at the National Theatre. (Simon Stone is probably my favourite director today.) The Almeida’s Romeo and Juliet — currently playing! — was also very good. And I saw some pleasant, if not particularly memorable, other shows: The Return of Benjamin Lay, The Motive and the Cue, Women Beware The Devil and Medea. I’m excited for the upcoming theatre season, which looks quite a lot better.

There were two very different magic shows in London: Derren Brown’s Showman, which was very good but not his best; and Penn & Teller, which was fine but a little lacklustre.

Also some good dance productions: Creature by Akram Khan was quite nice but Woolf Works was stupendous. Sadly the other Wayne McGregor I saw, Untitled, was not very good. On the opera front, Akhnaten was spectacular.

Books

Nothing so far has truly blown me away. Small Things Like These came closest — it’s heartbreaking — and The Glass Hotel was also very good. Babel, Trust, and the Biography of X are all also good, but not groundbreaking. On the non-fiction side, Chip War, Parfit and The Alignment Problem are all pretty good but none are essential (though the former might be, depending on your semiconductor knowledge).

Art

Again, a rather mediocre six months. The big shows — Ai Weiwei and Cezanne in London, Yayoi Kusama and Georgia O’Keefe in NYC — were all just fine. Souls Grown Deep Like The Rivers was rather good, as was Lynette Yiadom-Boakye at Tate Britain. But my highlight has to be the permanent collection at the excellent National Gallery in DC — the Rothko/Newman rooms in particular are breathtaking.

Gigs

Four Tet’s Squidsoup show was incredible — just absolutely stunning, with a gorgeous set list and genius 360-degree sound system. Rival Consoles also put on an amazing show at the Barbican — he is incredible at taking you on a lengthy journey through noise. And I’ve already written about Jamie XX’s very fun and eclectic set at Printworks.

The biggest show I went to was Beyoncé’s, having bought a last minute ticket. She was very good with a technically impressive production, though the set was designed without viewing angles being taken into consideration (a pet peeve of mine). And I continue to think she’s a bit overrated — reviews called this the most impressive arena tour ever, but I personally think Lady Gaga’s Born This Way Ball topped it over a decade ago. (Also Beyoncé uses a teleprompter, which is a bit embarrassing.) Still, I had a lot of fun despite not really being a Beyoncé fan, so credit where it’s due.

Movies

Probably the medium where I’ve had the most luck this year. I’ve been watching lots of fantastic older movies: In the Mood for Love, Hiroshima Mon Amour and Casablanca all blew me away. Mulholland Drive and Inland Empire baffled me in a very pleasing way. La Dolce Vita, Vertigo and The Seventh Seal didn’t quite connect with me, but are impressive nonetheless. When Harry Met Sally, Scream, and Legally Blonde are all a lot of fun. Some recent-ish gems, too: Ford vs. Ferrari (which I watched just before going to Le Mans) is excellent; so is Tripping With Nils Frahm, a gorgeous concert film.

Of new releases, Asteroid City is my highlight so far. I think it’s my favourite Wes Anderson, though I need to rewatch it — it moves very quickly. Across the Spider-Verse was very good, though worse than its predecessor; the same is true for John Wick: Chapter 4. I didn’t really get Decision to Leave, and M3gan didn’t quite live up to its potential.

Some of my favourites, though, were rewatches. Some movies, like Shutter Island and Saw, don’t hold up well on second viewing. Others really shine, though. Raiders of the Lost Ark is still fantastic. And rewatching The Dark Knight in IMAX was exhilarating.

Some good music, April 2023

Jamie xx’s set at Printworks on 8/4 was excellent: delightfully eclectic and constantly surprising. I’m not sure if anyone recorded it; I really hope they did.

Beforehand, I listened to his Gil Scott-Heron remix album, We’re New Here. The first time I heard this it did nothing for me; the second time it totally enraptured me. It’s really beautiful, and I’m baffled why it didn’t connect with me initially. (I also hadn’t put it together that this was the same Scott-Heron as Whitey On The Moon and The Revolution Will Not Be Televised, both of which you probably know but are always worth revisiting.)

Being at Printworks prompted me to finally listen to Bicep’s Printworks set; this one gives you exactly what you’d expect (no surprise drops here) but it does so pretty excellently.

In the music/theatre category, I saw the Woolf Works ballet a couple weeks ago; it was stunning and gave me new appreciation for Max Richter’s incredible score. And Akhnaten was wonderful to see live. Vincenzo Lamagna’s score for Creature, another ballet, was lovely but I doubt I’ll listen to it again.

More good things (books, films, restaurants)

Books

The Planet Remade by Oliver Morton — I’ll write more on this soon, but it is a very good, wide-ranging and surprisingly poetic book.

Whole Earth: The Many Lives of Stewart Brand by John Markoff — will also have more on this soon, but if you’re interested in Brand (and you should be), this is worth reading.

From Satori to Silicon Valley by Theodore Roszak — a short and very readable overview of the links between Silicon Valley and the ’60s counterculture.

Various Batman graphic novels — Year One was the highlight for me, though The Dark Knight Returns and Hush are good too. Neither are as good as The Long Halloween, Arkham Asylum or The Killing Joke, though. I also read The Black Mirror and The Court of Owls, neither of which impressed me very much.

Films

That comic binge was brought on by anticipation for The Batman, which was much better than I expected. It’s probably my favourite Batman film, though The Dark Knight is arguably a better film in and of itself. (I also watched a few animated films, and would recommend both Under the Red Hood and Mask of the Phantasm if you liked The Batman.)

We Are As Gods is a very good documentary about Stewart Brand, and by extension about the ’60s, de-extinction, and techno-utopianism.

I also watched Dune for the fourth time, this time at home, which confirmed my suspicions that it derives a lot of its power from the big screen (particularly IMAX). Still good, though.

Restaurants

Bake Street has started doing biryani on Sundays, and if the first batch was anything to go by this is now one of London’s best meals. Everything else there is still fantastic too, obviously. I’m very excited that Feroz is opening a new outlet in the promising-looking Arcade Food Hall.

Towpath reopened the other week, and a sunny lunch of taramasalata, carrot-top fritters and peas was pretty much perfect.

A lunch at Dosa Express was particularly memorable for the snacks — pani puri, samosa chaat, dhai vada. The dosas were good too, particularly the crispy rava ones.

The Black Axe Mangal x St John meal kit was worth it just for the t-shirt; the excellent food was the icing on the cake.

Music

I’ve been listening to a lot of Acid Arab, Michael Giacchino’s The Batman soundtrack, Floating Points’ new single, and Music from Saharan Cellphones.

fabric at the Opera was a very clever and fun event, which I hope they do a lot more of. Rival Consoles and Frank Wiedemann stole the show.